I've been using ACR for some time to processes Nikon (NEF) RAW files and plan to try Nikon NX- ? software. Would appreciate feedback, comments, heads-up, advice or pointers from anyone using the Nikon software. I currently use a Nikon D800 and a Nikon D300.

Thanks,

Warren

Anyone??? ???

Warren

Hi Warren,


I use the same two cameras as you and possibly for the same reason. I bought and loved the D300 when it came out, but over time grew tired of waiting for its upgrade to come along. So far, it hasn't.


I don't like the ACR at all for processing NEF files. Neither does Graham Cam, and when we get into one of "those moods", we grumble to each other about Nikon's refusal to provide Adobe with the information necessary to process NEFs properly. This may have made business sense while Nikon was in the software business, but not now.


It's my understanding that after Nikon sold their "NIK" products to Google, it became difficult, legally speaking, for them to continue to upgrade their software. The result is the release their NX-D program for free, rather than continuing with software development.


This program is excellent for converting NEF files, though I don't use it for any major changes to the image. I take the 16 bit TIF it creates over to Photoshop and work on it there.


Why use NX-D? The colours are natural and show the full latitude of the camera. By comparison, ACR tends to crush both an image's colour and latitude. This shows itself in images as a greater/harsher contrast and a significant loss of subtlety. I think it's fair to say that the images are noisier too.


The other RAW converter I will use on occasions is DXO. However, using their stock settings, I find it makes images quite "full on" with their colour and sharpening. I'm probably exaggerating, if you look at an image processed by DXO, you would probably find it difficult to work out which camera took it. As a generalisation, Nikons use less sharpening and less noise reduction than other camera producers. A glance at the sky will often tell you everything you need to know.


I've processed an image with ACR and NX-D. The controls were set to "flat" and I'm not trying to make them as similar to each other as I can. However, the initial colour temperature was set using a Spyder cube before shooting. This isn't a perfect test by any means, but it may give you an indication of what to expect. The image is one to one pixel crop, so it's easier to pick up faults due to processing.


Note parts of the yellow were over exposed 2 stops. I'm happy to process the image a second time, while trying to make the images as similar as possible, if you like. However, one of my intentions is to show how differently ACR and NX-D "see" the image. Remember, it is a free program.


You'll find the two images posted here https://www.flickr.com/photos/130636854@N02/


Hope this proves useful.


Good shooting,

les

One last thing. You can adjust your images in NX-D. However, it's a bit clunky, though I'm sure you could get used to it.

I know I'm spoilt by using Photoshop, where I tend to rely too much on NIK for quick and straight forward adjustments.

Les,

Thank you very much for your advice... it's exactly what I was looking for. Thank also for the link to your comparison images. Explanations are great, however the images tell the real story. As an aside, I love photographing small garden birds from a hide in my garden and generally use a Nikkor 200-400mm f4 VR on a D800 with heavily weighted tripod and a Wimberley gimbal head. However I can't achieve the sharpness I see on this and other sites. Had both the 200-400mm lens and camera to Nikon Aust for checking - they fiddled, but still the same. Purchased a Nikkor 300mm 2.8 VR and still no improvement. I suspected front focusing issues so very carefully fine tuned the body/lenses (200-400mm req'd +20 & 300mm req'd +15 increment adjustments!!) after Nikon fiddled but still no real improvement . Disappointed with the D800 as I consistently get sharper results from my D300. D800 goes back to Nikon first thing Monday, if still no improvement.... into the bin it goes and use my antique D300 until the D800 replacement arrives. >

Les.... again thanks, you're no doubt a busy man and I really appreciate your taking the time.

Regards,

Warren

Hi Warren,

I can only image that your D800 is broken in some way. Even used as a DX camera, it's 16 meg will out shine the D300's 12 meg with ease, and it's not due to the sensor size. The pardalote picture used in my reply is cropped one to one pixels, and so I can seriously say that its limit is firstly the user's technique and secondly the lens being used. However, I often don't get pictures that will go one to one with the camera, probably only one in five will do this on a tripod, so it's always pleasing when it happens. It's never going to happen free hand with shutter speeds under 2,000th of a second and maybe not even then.

You mention the eventual D300 replacement in your reply. The other possibility is the D810. When this first came out, I was surprised by how little seemed to have changed in its specs when compared with the D800. However, I was quite wrong to doubt the strength of the change. Lots of things are new, the sensor, the focus detection; which is from the D4 and the best in the business, and the shutter. I suspect that it's the last item that will interest you. It has very little vibration indeed and is extremely quiet.

This is important when considering your problems with the D800, which has quite a kick to it, in my view. This kick is easily stopped by cupping you hand down the side of the lens, to take up the shock of the shutter. People who are not pixel peepers probably won't notice the difference, but if you are keen to get every last drop of detail from your gear, give it a try. The memorial shot of Tom Oliver on the main web site has Tom showing how it's done.

You might wonder why all Nikons up to the D800 have had quite a strong shutter vibration. Well, they are metal shutters and this allows you to sync at 320th of a second. My friends, who all have Canons, find 160th is their reliable sweet spot, possibly due to their cloth shutter, though I'm no expert in this. You also gain the advantage that the metal construction gives to their shutter life. My D300 has in excess of 350,000 actuations and I'm still waiting, with curiosity, to see when it will bite the dust.

So after all this I would suggest a couple of experiments to try, if you haven't done them already. Use the D8OO on the tripod to take pictures using a cable release or the self timer. Then try with the lens cupped in you hand. Change the shutter speeds to see if this causes much change in your results.

If all else fails, try the D810. To my sorrow, I believe it's quite a lot better camera than the D800 in many ways. Maybe Graham Cam, who has one (and had a D800) , might add a word to two about this sometime. Meanwhile, if you look at Brian O'Leary's pictures, they'll give you an idea of what the D810 can do.

Cheers,
les