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Discussions about cameras, lenses, accessories, and image-processing.

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Pro Lens Filters 6 years 6 months ago #1360

  • Bruce Terrill
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Hi Guys,
I hope the 'Pro' lens side of things didn't scare anyone away but that is their title as described by OEM.
My inquiry is in particular about the Nikon Nikkor 300mm F2.8 VR II lens but I'm pretty sure that all Pro lenses use the same rear filter system?
I recently read on the puter that these rear filter systems require a drop-in filter in them to support the overall lens optical system, it stated that it didn't matter what sort of filter was used but something had to be in the slot even if it was only clear glass? Now this seemed strange to me but I'm 'very' new to these large 'Pro' lenses, so after not being able to find any other info on the problem I decided to ask all my good friends here on BL-P. Is there a requirement for a filter in the filter slot or is this just internet BS?
Second to this, are there any regular uses of large tele 'Pro' lenses that consistently use a filter in this slot and if so, what type?
The reason that I ask these questions is that my 300mm F2.8 is brand new and I cannot for the love of me get consistently sharp images of small birds, they are nearly always 'soft' and it's got to the point where I've gone looking for answers, after all this lens, 300mm F2.8, is supposed to have 'Legendary' focus and sharpness and I'm just not seeing it?
Thanks for taking the time Guys,
Bruce

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Pro Lens Filters 6 years 6 months ago #1361

  • Les Peters
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Hi Bruce,
There's something you need to watch for with the 300mm F2.8. VR2 or VR1. This is a big piece of heavy glass, and it takes the VR a little time to spin up. I find if you merely press the shutter button, the image stablisation has little or no effect. You want to depress your shutter button half way for at least half a second before taking the picture. Try this for yourself and see what length of time makes a diffference. Once it's active, things are fine and multiple shots will hold the VR.
Early Nikon lenses had a slot in the middle to put various coloured filters in, including a polariser. I wouldn't think about such things today. They just don't help. You could stick a CP on the end of the lens perhaps, but it's just a matter of taste really. I certainly wouldn't use an ultra violet filter. They degrade the image of top quality grass.

*CP = Circular Polariser

P.S. Yes, it is the second sharpest lens Nikon make. Only the 400F 2.8 beats it.
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Last edit: by Les Peters.

Pro Lens Filters 6 years 6 months ago #1362

  • Bruce Terrill
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Les,
Thanks for the info mate, I was 99% sure that I was doing something wrong and I can easily trace things back to when I started using Rear Button Focus.
I know that I keep my shutter finger just ever so slightly touching the button and when the auto focus lights up, it's game on, wham bam thank-you Ma'am and the VR has no way of starting up and helping out under those circumstances. I'm wondering as to whether it's time to go back to shutter button AF-on to get control back or should I persist and learn the new system properly?
My problems also stem from the fact that I target specific small birds that just refuse to sit still and when you get the 'green light' from AF, I don't really want to hang around waiting for the VR to warm up? Again, this is a technique issue and it requires more practice on my part. . .
Thanks again Les,
Bruce

:whistle: Maybe Graham has a suitable mentor that I could spend time in the field with?
I could be a try-out for his new Mentor system. . . Graham ????

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Last edit: by Bruce Terrill.

Pro Lens Filters 6 years 6 months ago #1363

  • Glenn Pure
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Another thing to consider is whether AF microadjustment is needed on your camera. If your shots are sharp in some parts but not others (the places where you want it to be sharp), then the microadjustment will need changing. However, if they are a bit soft everywhere then, as Les suggests, I'd be looking first at the image stabilisation system and making sure that is on correct settings and working the way you want it. Can't answer specific questions about Nikon gear though.

As for filters in internal slots in the lens, putting another piece of glass in the optical path can only degrade the image even if only slightly. Unless the user manual for your lens or Nikon tells you that you *must* put something in there, I wouldn't.
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Pro Lens Filters 6 years 6 months ago #1364

  • Bruce Terrill
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Hi Glenn,
Ever since I have had this lens it seemed slightly soft on the D500 and it's only ever been on the D500.
I thought long and hard about the AutoFocusFineTuning because if I stuffed it up, theoretically, it should be worse? Anyway I conducted the tests as per Steve Perry's video on the subject and every time that I set-up and took a photo, the camera suggested an adjustment; I took this to mean something was astray otherwise no adjustments would be suggested?
I then followed Perry's protocol and set the final adjustment but I still see no real difference which makes me suspect user error again? I have contacted Nikon and they will set it for me under warranty but I have heard quite a few reports indicating systemic failures of warranty applied work? I now wish for my camera and lens to work properly together, but I'm shit scared to take it in and get it back with the same problem??
Bruce

Mentor request for Ballarat/Melbourne please, anyone interested? I will travel no problems. . .

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Last edit: by Bruce Terrill.

Pro Lens Filters 6 years 6 months ago #1365

  • Glenn Pure
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Bruce, if it was mine, I'd take it to Nikon for the micro AF adjust if they'll do it under warranty but it's entirely your call, of course. In the circumstances, it seems you don't have a lot to lose. But reiterating, you will be able to work out if that is the problem: examine your images carefully to see where they are soft. Make sure you use a subject/photo where it will be obvious if the camera is focussing a little in front or a little behind the focus point - for example, focus on the middle of a bird that is slanting towards you. If the AF adjust was good, then exactly that focus point will be sharpest. If the camera is front or back focussing, some of the bird in front of or behind the actual focus point will be sharpest instead. If the shots are not sharp anywhere, then you have a different problem ie with camera movement when taking photos, or image stabiliser issues as already discussed. Make sure you do your test shots at fully open aperature (f2.8) to minimise the depth of field.
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